Eliminates stock mufflers and all cross-over pipes. Includes thick, polished tips and a throaty sure to let everyone know that you mean business. All pieces are a direct bolt-on so no welding or cutting is required to make your Viper sound like it should have when it left the factory. Reduces vehicle weight by 22 lbs. Add extra performance and that deep rumble to your Viper! Click here to hear sound. Cat-back System fits SRT Straight-through 3", nonrestrictive system design maximizes airflow, improving performance and fuel economy.
Mandrel bends and design deliver increased airflow vs. No welding needed and all hardware and detailed, full-color instructions are included State emissions legal Click here to hear sound. Cutting or adapters that are not included may be necessary.
Instant horsepower gains, abundant pulling torque, and a helping hand to improve your gas mileage are also on tap. Not to mention, the unbeatable performance looks of single or dual tailpipes running out your back end or sides. Magnaflow engineers their Cat-Back Exhaust Systems to bolt on easy, giving you more time to cruise. All pipes are mandrel-bent stainless steel tubing from the flanges to the tailpipes.
Magnaflow also throws at least one of their high-powered mufflers into the mix to complete the system. Features Magnaflow Exhaust Systems unleash instant horsepower and torque gains Carefully custom engineered for your specific year, make and model Frees your ride from the power-robbing restrictions of a stock exhaust Built with the finest fast-flowing, restriction-free stainless steel tubing for a lifetime of dependable duty Reduces engine heat, relieves backpressure and improves exhaust scavenging for extra power and greater efficiency Choose between single and dual exit systems depending on vehicle Select from a variety of systems tuned for your driving style Mufflers feature a steel mesh core that warms up quickly and maintains optimum temperature for exhaust movement Dense acoustical-absorbing material inside the muffler filters out vibration and harsh noise, leaving behind a smooth, throaty growl Sturdy 0.
Heat resistant. Choose year group to get correct length. Reduce side sill AND interior temperatures up to 60 degrees with this space-age thermal insulation material! Works on ALL Vipers. Easy to install. Wraps directly around the exhaust pipe in the side sills. Kit includes enough material for both sides of your Viper with stainless steel tie wraps to ensure an easy do-it-yourself installation. Can withstand temperatures in excess of degrees Fahrenheit- nearly 10 times what your exhaust puts out.
Drivers side went in easier than the passenger side. On both sides I needed to remove the motor mount bolts and slightly raise the motor to get the headers past the frame rails.
Really easy to do. Here's the passenger side with the valve covers back on. At this point I went ahead and torqued everything to the head and started working down stream, first with the collectors and the rear O2's. I grabbed a couple O2 block offs from the exhaust shop I used and used some loctite to secure them in the collector as they can come loose. I secured the rear O2's up and out of the way and used spark plug anti-fowlers to insulate them to not only protect them, but also to allow them to properly heat making the system "ready" so it wouldn't throw any codes, and still pass emissions.
The rear O2's read plenty of oxygen in the outside air so the system thinks everything is great. So far so good, it works great! You have to drill out a significant portion out of the end to get them to accept the O2 but it works. After bolting up the collectors I moved on to the turnout pipes.
These are supplied basically to cut to length for the customer. As with all things measure twice and cut once, or in my case do this a million times because your afraid to remove to much lol.
I would simply mark the turnout where I wanted the cut, mark it, then mask it and cut it with a sawzall. The sawzall worked well even with the jet hot coating being so hard. After each cut I would de-burr it with the grinder or dremel and test fit. After that get everything tightened up with the supplied hardware and your done!
I took the time to really insulate and or wrap anything that I thought might possibly get to hot with reflective heat tape. Here's the finished install! I put a few heat cycles on everything and went over all of the fasteners again. I also decided to move the passenger side O2 wire back and away from the rear passenger side primary just to be safe, there's plenty of room to tap the frame rail and install a nice hoseclamp out of the way.
Andy Wheeler. Reply Quote 0. Joined: Nov 22, Posts: 11, Alot more work than a header install on my truck. Disconnect battery, make sure the windows are down and do not close the rear lid. Mufflers and exhaust. Header and exhaust removal: A. Remove header bolts. Both the oem and the Belanger headers require the top motor mount nut to be removed both sides and the engine lifted approximately one inch.
Note, the front cross member will not allow the engine to be lifted more than one inch. You do not need to remove the front cross member, one inch is enough clearance to remove the headers from the top. Do not remove both motor mount nuts at the same time, keep one fastened at all times. You can lift just one side of the engine easily.
I lifted each side separately with a small electric scissors jack and a 2X2 piece of wood. There are machined bosses on the engine that you can see from the underside these bosses are the perfect place to positioned the 2 x 2 for lifting.
You can tighten the motor mount bolts after the headers are removed, the ARH headers will slip into place without lifting the engine. Installing the ARH header A. It is critical that you start the header gasket locator bolt first. There is one tight fitting hole in the header gasket, it is in the center tube. If you do not start it first, you probably will not be able to get it started.
Start all the header bolts by hand and tighten the first few turns by hand. Bolt the headers in place and torque to 21 ft lbs. The ARH headers are asymmetrical, there is a left and right side, be care you can get them mixed and they will install on the wrong side. The lower half of the header is also asymmetrical, there is a left and right side, the O2 bung is at the front of the car that tells you which is the right or left side.
Two things make the flange bolts difficult to install, starting the bolts and torquing the bolts. The tubes interfere with the wrench. To make it easier I used a skim coat of high temp red to attach the gasket to the lower flange, make sure it has dried. Drivers Side: i. This requires removing the fasteners on the back half of the wheelwell liner. Two bolts are started from the top side with the claw tool in the picture below. The last two bolts are started and tightened from the bottom side.
Keep in mind you will need the 2" long wrench to start these and the longer box wrench to do the final tightening. Made in America. All necessary hardware to complete exhaust kit yourself Some welding required. High Flow Cats included with connectors.
This kit contains 3" high flow cats and stainless steel band clamps for a complete bolt on system from headers to Catback. SHOP Menus.
Viper Photos. Viper Info. Customer Service. Viper Links. Bulletin Board. Shipping within Continental USA. More Shipping Info Click Here. Includes: Headers, gaskets, hardware, header hook ups, polished tips and instructions. Complete bolt on no cutting or welding. Viper Gen1 For a deeper Rumble sound! Up to a 20 HP Gain! Includes: 3" High Flow Cats.
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